Eighteen, a new wine bar in the Market at (naturally) 18 York St., has the kind of low-key cool and emphasis on drinking Carrie Bradshaw (played by Sarah Jessica Parker) and her gals pals would appreciate.
The decor is almost entirely black, white and silver with good-looking waiters and waitresses dressed all in black checking frequently to see if you’d like another drink and if you’re enjoying your visit. A cynic might say this solicitousness will drop off once Eighteen has established its clientele, but we won’t jump to unfair conclusions.
As you’re seated, you’re presented with three menus: One for food, one for cocktails and beer and one for wines. Cocktails include a page of martinis, champagne cocktails, beer, ales and spirits. The wine menu is extensive — this is a wine bar, after all. Domestic and imported wines are available by glass, half-bottle and bottle.
The food menu is limited but offers upscale, beautifully presented salads, pastas and entrees at moderate prices. I wouldn’t recommend the food to someone who likes their meal plain. Even a simple tossed salad (Seasonal Greens, $7) is served with mandarin sections and a sweet lemon and saki vinaigrette. Granted, you can probably order it plain, but Eighteen seems geared to diners with rich and / or imaginative tastes. Two examples: Roasted Duck and Smoked Mozzarella Ravioli ($15) or Cornish Game Hen in a honey and soya sauce glaze ($22).
Desserts vary from a $2 ice wine truffle to the $12 fresh fruit and cheese plate, served with walnuts. They also serve Ginger Creme Brulee (can you believe the imagination of this place?), Italian Gelato and chocolate lava cake.
On a recent Thursday evening, the clientele was mainly a fashionably-dressed 20s-40s crowd, with slim-skirted women talking into cell phones as they ordered more martinis. It's this kind of sight that puts you in mind of Sex And The City. (For you guys hoping that we meant every guy leaves with a Sarah Jessica Parker lookalike, that kind of activity can be found In Your Dreams.)
DJs spin jazz and soul sounds on Friday and Saturday nights. In the near future, Eighteen plans to add live bands into the entertainment mix.

July 3, 2001
EIGHTEEN
18 York St.
Open daily, dinner served 5 p.m.-11 p.m. Bar open until 2 a.m.